Dr. Tom Herrington presented his research at the May 16, 2012 Ocean Lecture & Educators’ Night. Dr. Herrington discussed how we study waves, what creates rip currents, and how beaches erode over time. Dr. Herrington’s research focuses on the dynamic intersection between the coast and oceans, how processes at this intersection shape the coastline in the past, present, and future, and therefore how we can plan for the future. Following the lecture, we shared lesson plans related to wave and rip current generation and processes that shape the coastline (beaches) and discussed how to bring these topics into your classrooms/clubs.
Below we have included a summary of Dr. Herrington, Background Materials, the evening’s broadcast, .pdf of the science presentation, and adapted Lesson Plans to teach on the topics of waves, rip currents, and beaches.
Enjoy! The MARE Team
Dr. Tom Herrington
Dr. Tom Herrington –
Dr. Tom Herrington is a Professor in the Department of Civil, Environmental and Ocean Engineering at Stevens Institute of Technology. The Herrington lab studies coastal hydrodynamics, sediment transport, wave-structure interaction, coastal meteorology, coastal hazard mitigation, and the development of coastal observing systems…meaning he studies lots of things about waves. Come to the event to learn more!
Background Materials-
We have compiled the following materials as optional background information if you wish to read about the topics that were covered during the event and included in the adapted lesson plans below.
Dr. Tom Herrington and the NJ Sea Grant put together an informative brochure all about waves: Surf’s Up! All About Waves Dr. Sharon Gilman at the Coastal Carolina University has a good description of waves. The Open University prepared a textbook titled Waves, Tides, and Shallow-Water Processes, sections of the Waves chapter maybe helpful. The BBC has a great 2 minute video, that is student friendly, to explain how wind creates the waves we see on shore. (BBC’s Ocean Waves Explained) Waves the What and How:
Dr. Tom Herrington and Jenny McCormick, with the help of numerous sponsors, developed an informative brochure about rip currents: Rip Current Awareness The National Weather Service (National Oceanographic & Atmospheric Administration) produced a summary of rip current formation.Rip Currents:
Dr. Tom Herrington and the NJ Sea Grant put together an informative brochure about beach formation and processes: Where’s the Beach? The Open University prepared a textbook titled Waves, Tides, and Shallow-Water Processes, sections of the Beaches chapter maybe helpful. Dr. Jack Morelock at the Universidad de Puerto Rico has a thorough description of the beach system and sand movement. Dr. Britt Raubenheimer at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution describes the new research to decipher how currents, waves, and sands change shorelines.Wave-Beach Interactions:
Science Presentation & Evening Program-
If you are interested in watching the broadcast of the event, click here: https://www.ustream.tv/recorded/22633938
If you are interested in downloading the presentation slides, click here: Dr. Herrington’s Presentation
Lesson Plans-
We compiled additions and adaptations to previous lesson plans to incorporate the wave, rip currents, and beach formation information that will be presented during Dr. Herrington’s talk into your classroom.
Introduction to Waves: Students learn about ocean waves, how they are formed, and the parts of waves. (Elementary School) 5.2.2.E.3 – Some forces act by touching, while other forces can act without touching. Wave Heights: Students learn about the varying heights of ocean waves and what causes the variation, how waves are formed, and the parts of waves. (Elementary School) 5.2.2.E.3 – Some forces act by touching, while other forces can act without touching. Finding Monster Waves: Students learn about the varying sizes of ocean waves, what causes the variation, and where to find giant waves. (Middle School) 5.2.6.E.1 – An object’s position can be described by locating the object relative to other objects or a background . Conditions at Sea: Making Waves & Data Activity: Students learn about wave formation and forecasting of waves, and access real-time data to predict actual conditions at sea. (Middle & High School) 5.2.8.E.1 – An object is in motion when its position is changing. Wave Properties: Students learn the components of a wave, and then discuss the effects of wave height, wavelength, and wave period in determining the overall size of a wave. (High School) 5.2.12.E.3 – The motion of an object changes only when a net force is applied. Waves Lesson Plans:
5.2.4.E.2 – There is always a force involved when something starts moving or changes its speed or direction of motion. A greater force can make an object move faster and farther.
5.2.4.E.2 – There is always a force involved when something starts moving or changes its speed or direction of motion. A greater force can make an object move faster and farther.
5.2.8.E.1 – An object is in motion when its position is changing.
5.2.12.E.3 – The motion of an object changes only when a net force is applied.
Beach Safety: Students learn about beach safety and how to make safe decisions while at the beach. (Elementary School) Not applicable. Rip Currents: Nearshore Fundamentals: Students are exposed to the science behind how rip currents form. (Middle & High School) 5.2.8.E.1 – An object is in motion when its position is changing. Rip Currents: Forecasting: Students use different oceanographic information to forecast the potential of rip currents along different beaches. (Middle & High School) 5.1.12.A.2 – Interpretation and manipulation of evidence-based models are used to build and critique arguments/explanations. Rip Currents Lesson Plans:
5.2.12.E.3 – The motion of an object changes only when a net force is applied.
Sand Travels: Respect the Beach: Students learn how sand is formed, how waves move sand, and how human structures affect where sand travels. (Elementary School) 5.4.4.C.1 – Rocks can be broken down to make soil. Let’s Make a Shoreline: Students make a model of different shorelines to determine how waves shape our shorelines and move sediments. (Elementary & Middle School) 5.4.4.C.1 – Rocks can be broken down to make soil. Modeling Beach Erosion: Students explore how both natural and human structures mold and redistribute the sediments of the shoreline. (Middle School) 5.4.6.C.3 – Rocks and rock formations contain evidence that tell a story about their past. The story is dependent on the minerals, materials, tectonic conditions, and erosion forces that created them. Who Moved the Beach?: Students explore the primary causes and impacts of coastal erosion, and how human communities’ can/should respond to the processes. (High School) 5.4.12.G.5 – Human activities have changed Earth’s land, oceans, and atmosphere, as well as its populations of plant and animal species. Wave-Beach Interactions Lesson Plans:
5.4.6.C.3 – Rocks and rock formations contain evidence that tell a story about their past. The story is dependent on the minerals, materials, tectonic conditions, and erosion forces that created them.
5.4.8.C.2 – Physical and chemical changes take place in Earth materials when Earth features are modified through weathering and erosion.
5.4.8.C.2 – Physical and chemical changes take place in Earth materials when Earth features are modified through weathering and erosion.
5.4.8.G.2 – Investigations of environmental issues address underlying scientific causes and may inform possible solutions.